September 17, 2011

Living in a hostel in Quito

We have been living at the Traveller’s Inn for over a week now and plan to stay until Wednesday. This is our first time in a hostel and we didn’t really know what to expect. We selected this particular hostel mainly based on reviews we read online. It is by no means the cheapest accommodation around, but we hoped paying a little more would mean we would get a little more.  In the Marsical Sucre district of Quito where we are staying (also known as gringo land), hostel rates start at $8 (US) per night per person for a bed in a dorm room with shared bathroom. Usually breakfast is included.

We reserved one week in advance at this hostel through HostelWorld and opted for the matrimonial room (double bed) with shared bath. We thought of it like camping only a little better as we would have an actual roof over our heads. The cost: $11 each per night, including breakfast.

The Traveller’s Inn is a large, old colonial home with hard wood floors, 10 foot ceilings, and simple decor. It is a family run operation. This place is spotless. The wood floor on the main level is polished, yes polished, twice daily. The shared bathrooms are scrubbed top to bottom several times a day. I think the family lives somewhere on the premises and shares the same common spaces.  In many ways it feels more like a bed and breakfast.

On the main floor, there is an office, a living room with TV and large selection of American DVD’s, dining room, kitchen and another sitting area. There are guest rooms on this floor, upstairs, and in the basement. The basement also has a common area with two computers for guests. In addition, there is another building out back where the laundry is located and 4 more rooms that share a single bathroom. We had one of these rooms assigned to us when we arrived.

Our first room was very small – it had a double bed pushed against one wall, a large built in closet next to the bed (only one person could stand in between the closet and the bed at one time), a tiny table at the end of the bed with an old TV on it. On the positive, the bathroom was literally right next door – very convenient even though you had to go outside to use it. Oh, and the room had a mysterious, funky smell to it. And the bed and pillows were as hard as cement. I kid you not. We lasted three nights in this room until we decided enough was enough, we needed more comfort, more space and less stink.

Last Sunday, Chris talked to the owner and got us what is probably the best room(s) in the house for only $8 more a night ($30 for both of us). Thank goodness we changed rooms as two days later Chris got very sick and it would have been unbearable for him (and me) in that little, damp room in the backyard.­

We are now on the top floor of the house. We have the whole floor to ourselves. It is comprised of two bedrooms (sleeps a total of 4), a private bathroom, walk-in closet, a lovely balcony, and views of the mountains through most of the windows and from the balcony. Way more space than we need, but we’re enjoying every inch of it. The ceilings are high, maybe 10 or 12 feet, and wood shelves from floor to ceiling adorn every wall. It must have been a library at one time. Oh, and we have wifi access in our room. Most rooms don’t have wifi – it’s only in the common areas. Again, this turned into a big plus seeing as Chris has been sick and bedridden for the past three days. On the negative, because the room faces the street, it is very, very noisy. Earplugs are a must!

 

 

 

 

 

Breakfast is served between 7:30 and 9:30 am. Each morning, we go down to the dining room and eat the exact same breakfast. Eggs, scrambled or fried, coffee or tea, croissant with a piece of cheese that sort of tastes like cream cheese, glass of yogurt, glass of fruit juice, and small plate of fruit. The fruit and the juice change each day, but everything else is the same.

 

 

 

 

It’s a big breakfast and keeps us going well into the afternoon. It was a great breakfast for the first few days, but now we are sick of this breakfast. I haven’t eaten so many eggs ever.  Note the eggs had not yet arrived when I took the photo to the right.

 

 

 

 

 

When we leave the hostel, we leave our key with the front desk. And whoever is manning the desk opens the three locked doors to let us out. Let’s just say they don’t take security lightly here.

 

 

 

 

 

There is a locked, iron gate at the street. You must ring a doorbell to get in.

 

 

 

Once inside the yard and once you have been identified as a guest, you are allowed through another locked gate at the top of the stairs, and then finally you enter the house through another locked door. The entire perimeter of the house is fenced and above the fence is about three feet of barbed wire. It feels like you’re in a compound once inside but I’m not complaining. I’m quite content to have multiple layers of security between me and whatever lurks beyond the fence, especially at night.

Happy hour is from 5-8 and you can buy a large Pilsner beer for a buck. They have snacks for purchase as well. We enjoyed happy hour for the first few nights, but now that Chris is sick, we’ve gone dry. We also spent a little bit of time in the common area in the evenings. Guests hang out here, with the family, watching TV (American shows, all English, with Spanish sub-titles) or American movies.

Overall, I’d say our experience thus far has been very positive.  The family that runs this place is very friendly, helpful, and caring of their guests. Most of them speak very good English. We love our current rooms (minus the noise).  We would definitely recommend this place, although I would not recommend staying in the first room we stayed in, that was just bad, very very bad.

We’ve learned some lessons from this experience:

1. Access to a kitchen would have made our lives so much easier, especially with Chris being sick. It would have been nice to make a cup of tea or coffee whenever you wanted one, or to be able to make some of your own food. I went to a grocery store and picked up non-perishable items (bread, fruit, snacks, etc.) that we could keep in our room. It helped, but a kitchen would have been better.

2. It’s worth spending a little extra for the private bathroom. Again, good thing we switched rooms before Chris got sick – he really used that bathroom, let me tell you.

3. Prices are always negotiable. We received a $6 per night discount because we stayed longer.  It never hurts to ask.

4. It pays to shop around. If Chris hadn’t gotten sick, we probably would have looked around a little more to see if we could find a better deal. As it turns out, there is a condo right across the street (you can see it in one of the photos above) that rents fully furnished, 1 bedroom apartments for $100/week. Oh well, we’ll know for next time.

5. It would be nice to have a comfortable chair to sit in and a desk to work at. While the beds are much more comfortable in the current room, there is nowhere to sit other than on the bed.  My back is start to object.

My first run in Quito

Yesterday I went on my first run. After a week in Quito, I feel fully acclimatized and I was curious to see if I would feel a difference running at this altitude (2800 m / 9800 ft).  It wasn’t going to be an accurate test seeing as I haven’t run (I hate to admit this) in about six weeks. If I felt winded, it may be the altitude, or it could just as easily be that I’m little out of shape.

I planned my route ahead of time.  I wanted to run to el Parque Metropolitano.  This park is the largest urban park in South America at 1,376 acres (5.5 km²) (as reference, New York’s Central Park is 843 acres (341 ha). The park is located in northern Quito, on the hill of Bellavista behind Estadio Olímpico Atahualpa. The park is suited for mountain biking, walking, and running. Most of it is eucalyptus forest with trails, but there also are numerous sculptures on display. The park has four sites that can be used for picnics or barbecues, and the eastern section has a view of Cotopaxi, Antisana, and the Guayllabamba river basin. (Thanks Wikipedia.)

From the map, I figured it would take no more than a half hour to get to the park running a very easy pace.  I would then walk around the park a bit and then run back to the hostel.  I didn’t want to run more than one hour today since I haven’t been running for a while.  Off I went, dressed in my regular running clothes, equipped with my water skin, 5 bucks in case I needed to take a taxi, a business card of my hostel in case I got completely lost, and of course a map (thank goodness).  Sorry, didn’t take the camera so no pictures with this post.

I was pretty confident I knew where I was going as I had studied the map in advance, and I was getting quite familiar with the area north of our hostel.  Well, when I arrived at the first major intersection – a roundabout – I was completely perplexed.  There were about five major streets (I’m talking 4-6 lane boulevards) feeding into the roundabout.  Two problems:  which way do I go and how the heck do I cross this intersection with no traffic lights to help me.  I studied the map again and observed the traffic pattern for a while to figure out how to cross without getting hit (pedestrians do NOT have the right of way in this city).  This became the norm at every major intersection thereafter.  Stop.  Study the traffic pattern – sometimes for two cycles of lights just to figure out when it might be safe to cross.  Then run, literally, across the street.  The streets in Quito are not laid out squarely – they curve, they criss-cross, they turn into other streets.  It’s quite confusing.  At least it is to me. And drivers rarely yield to pedestrians.  If you’re in their way, they’ll be sure to let you know with a friendly, or not-so-friendly honk.

I was running a nice and easy pace and for about ten minutes it was very flat.  I felt great.  Legs were fresh (no surprise there) and my breathing was easy.  But then the terrain changed to one great big hill.  The park is afterall at the top of a hill.  This is a dream location if you want to do hill training.  As soon as I began to ascend, I quickly became short of breath and got a headache immediately.  This didn’t surprise me as I get winded just going up a flight of stairs here – I know it is the altitude because I couldn’t be that out of shape so quickly, at least I hope not.

I kept going.  I ran a little, walked a little.  It was getting steeper and steeper.  One half hour in, and I still wasn’t at the park.  In fact, I was now in a more residential area high above the city (great views) looking west, down at the city below with the mountains behind.  The streets were quite deserted in this area and I wasn’t exactly sure how to get into the park.  I wasn’t quite lost, as I could see some trees way above me which I figured must be the park but it was still a ways to go.

At this point, I decided to turn back mainly because I wasn’t feeling secure about being alone in this area without knowing exactly where I was going.  It may have been fine, but I prefer to err on the side of caution.  Besides, I had reached the half-way point in my run so it was time to turn back anyways.

I managed to make my way down the hill to Carolina Park – the park I walked through the other day.  I enjoyed the rest of my run on the flat running path that traverses the park.  I hadn’t seen the entire park yesterday so enjoyed the opportunity to run it from one end to the other.  I was surprised to see an airplane, yes a real airplane (not sure what kind – it had two propellers on each side) parked in the park.  I have no idea why.  Wish I had my camera with me, it would have made a great shot seeing as it was plastered in graffiti.

I returned to the hostel, satisfied with my run.  Total time:  1 hour 15 minutes.  Total distance:  No idea.

The top three dangers when running in Quito (in my humble opinion) and my advice for dealing with them (based on my one run):

1.  Traffic:  Never, never enter an intersection before looking in every single direction.  At lights, make sure you understand the traffic pattern before entering the intersection.  It may look like it’s safe to go, but look out, there’s a lane turning right in front of you! Better yet, latch onto a local and go when they go.

2.  Sidewalks:  Not only are there potholes and cracks and loose cement, the sidewalks are not flat, they go up and down unexpectedly.  And be mindful of all the dog s*** – they clearly don’t have any by-laws to keep the sidewalks clean.  I want to know what Ecuadorian dogs are eating as I have never seen such huge piles of s*** before.

3.   Altitude: Finally, the effects of altitude are very real and should not be minimized.  I don’t think it’s a good idea to go running if you haven’t properly acclimatized. Like anything respect your limits and listen to your body.  There’s no shame in walking up a hill that is practically vertical and that increases your altitude in every step.