career break

Camino Day1 – Chris

Well, it was tough going at times, but I managed the 27kms to the first stop through the mountains in roughly 7 hours.

Passed Christina at the 7.5 km mark, even though I left a half hour later in a vain attempt to get my hair cut before starting… the barber was closed on Tuesdays.

I took far too many pictures to be sure… and realize it´s going to be hard to limit myself to 40GB spread over 30 days or so!

I´m chaifing a bit between the legs, and my feet or sore… possibly the beginning of blisters…

More later, I´m tired, and hungry, and my euro worth of internet is running out!

What to pack for the Camino de Santiago?

We have spent today getting ourselves organized for our month long walk doing the Camino de Santiago. Most people spend a fair bit of time getting themselves prepared for such a long journey even purchasing special gear.  We will make do with what we have on hand, using our regular back packs even though they are much larger (65L) and heavier(2.5 kg) than they should be and we’ll wear our standard hiking clothes and shoes.

Weight is the big issue when undertaking such a colossal hike; we’re gong to feel every ounce that we are carrying for 780 km.  The rule of thumb is to carry no more than 10-15% of your body weight. So my goal is to carry a pack between 7 – 10 kg in weight.   I did a test run at Trove and was discouraged to find that I couldn’t get the pack lighter than 10 kg.  I knew I needed to be more ruthless but I couldn’t see what should go.

Today I made my final decisions but it was a challenge without a scale. Chris devised a clever system to at least determine which item was heavier.  While knowing the weight would have been better, this system did help me make some critical decisions.  I think my pack weighs about 9 kg now but I can’t be certain.  It’s definitely not more than 10.

For those of you who may be considering this hike in the future, click here to see my complete packing list.  It seems pretty skimpy on the clothes. Basically, I’ll be wearing the same clothes each day and washing clothes each night.  I’ll have one change of clothes for the evening.  I will use one t-shirt and my running shorts as pj’s.  I have a long sleeve base layer in case it gets cold but left the bottoms behind (tough decision, let me tell you). We’ll be traversing mountains and it can still get chilly – hope I don’t regret leaving the bottoms behind (ha ha).  I’m bringing a sleeping bag and sleeping mat – total weight 2.3 kg.  These items are not an absolute necessity because most hostels will have at least basic bed linen.  But the sleeping bag will give me a lot of comfort because it is very warm and cozy so I’m reluctant to leave it behind. The sleeping mat will give me the flexibility to sleep outdoors (gasp!) in the event I don’t find an available bed one night.  Anything I haven’t used within the first week, will probably be posted to Santiago de Compostella to hold until I get there.  I’m also bringing my walking sticks – remember one of my poles snapped in two when I lost my balance during a river crossing in Patagonia? Luckily, my sister brought me a replacement pair when she came to Italy and took the old ones home.

Christina’s gear including what she is wearing.

The weighing system was pushed to its limit with full packs,
but it did demonstrate Chris’ pack on the right is heavier,
if only by a few pounds.  He’ll also be carrying his camera around his neck. 

Tomorrow is another travel day for us.  But first, we must go to the post office to pack our extra stuff into boxes and ship them to the post office in Santiago de Compostela where they will sit until we pick them up at then end of June.  It is called “poste restante” and apparently most post offices around the world provide this service.  We’re keeping our fingers crossed that our stuff makes it there safely as we’re sending all our electronics (lap tops and extra camera equipment).

We will then travel by bus to a little town on the border of Spain and France called Irun (NOT to be confused with Iran).  The bus will drop us off on the Spanish side and we’ll walk over to the French side where the town is called Hendaye.  From there we catch a train to Bayonne and then another train from Bayonne to St. Jean Pied de Port.  It’s quite a rigamarole to go less than 300 km, but hopefully we make all our connections so that we can begin our camino on Tuesday morning.


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 Buen Camino!

Off to Spain and the Camino de Santiago

We are now headed to Spain to walk the Camino de Santiago, a 780 km journey from St Jean Pied de Port, France to Santiago de Compostela, Spain.  We have 29 days allocated (yes, that translates to approximately 27 km per day) after which we hop onto a plane and fly to London, England where we will be visiting relatives (Colin and Lynne) for a few days (my niece, Catherine’s in-laws) and then staying on at their place for the month of July while they travel to Canada. But I’m getting ahead of myself. First, we must complete our odyssey in Spain.

There are many pilgrimage routes that end in Santiago de Compostela but the one we are planning to walk, Camino Francais or The Way of St. James has existed for over a thousand years. It was one of the most important Christian pilgrimages during medieval times, together with Rome and Jerusalem, and a pilgrimage route on which a plenary indulgence could be earned.  There are other major pilgrimage routes such as the Via Francigena to Rome which I mentioned we followed for a few kilometres while doing the walking tour of Tuscany a couple of weeks ago.

Nowadays, thousands of people embark on these pilgrim walks and they are becoming increasingly popular with each passing year.  For example, according to Wikipedia, only 690 people walked the Way of St. James route in 1985 compared to 272,703 in 2010.  Today, the reasons for doing a pilgrim walk are as varied as the people who do it.  I’m still trying to figure out the reasons why I am doing this journey.  I am attracted to the challenge of it both physically and psychologically in much the same way I was attracted to the challenge of running a marathon.  The idea of having time to think, time to enjoy my solitude and the opportunity to meet people from around the world also appeals to me. Maybe the most tempting reason of all is having a legitimate excuse to ditch my husband for a month.  That’s right, we plan to walk the Camino independently.  So while we may start off together, or maybe we’ll stagger our start, we will each go at our own pace and walk our own Camino.  We will meet up again on June 26th in Santiago de Compostela.

I have mixed feelings about walking the camino alone, especially as a woman. Part of me embraces this idea and thinks it is what I need.  But part of me is really quite scared to venture out on my own like this. I’m following my own personal philosophy to “feel the fear but do it anyways” and will embrace this walk and all it will entail.

You may also be interested to know that as pilgrims, we will enjoy special privileges along the way. At the beginning, we will be issued an offical “pilgrim’s passport” that will be stamped at each albergue (hostel) we stay at.  We will receive pilgrim rates at restaurants and hostels; some hostels only serve the needs of pilgrims.  On average, we expect to spend about 30 euros each per day unless of course, unbeknownst to me, Chris packs it in after the first couple of days and checks into a five star resort for the rest of the month.

What does this mean for the blog?  I have decided, after a lot of deliberation, not to bring my laptop with me as I don’t want the excess weight or the distraction.  I would like to share my journey with our friends and family in real time so I plan to write about my experience along the way whenever I can find an internet cafe.  I can’t promise a daily post, but will try to get online every couple of days. I’ll do my best with photos as well. Let’s put it this way, I’ll do what I can to share my experience with you as I live, or should I say, walk it.

I invite you to come and walk the Camino with me.  Buen Camino.