Europe

Turning 50 in style in Paris

July 28, 2012 Europe France

Andrew and Alyssa arrived first thing on Friday morning after an overnight flight from Toronto.  I was so anxious to see them, I barely slept at all the night before.  Funny how I have managed for almost a year without them (and them without me), but once I knew they were coming, I could barely contain my excitement knowing they were on their way.  Having the kids with me for my birthday was the best gift ever (thanks guys!).

Alyssa surprised me with a “Paris” wardrobe for my trip.  When I had mentioned earlier that I didn’t want to look like a frump in Paris, she had simply responded with a “don’t worry about it mom, I’ve got it covered”.  I thought she would bring me a top or two – imagine my surprise and delight when she handed me five complete outfits including a pretty dress to wear for my birthday dinner.

Once the kids were settled into the apartment, we set out to explore Paris.  The weather was dismal – cold and rainy just like England – but it was perfect museum weather.  We got caught in a torrential downpour on our way to the Musée d’Orsay.  It didn’t stop the kids or Chris from taking pictures along the way.

Here’s some of Alyssa’s shots:

After wandering through the Musée d’Orsay for a couple of hours taking in the gorgeous impressionist works of art by some of my favourite artists like Monet, Van Gogh, Degas and Renoir, jet lag got the better of the kids and we headed back to our apartment for a little rest.

The musée d’Orsay used to be a train station.
The two clocks have been transformed into windows with
great views overlooking the Seine. 

Alyssa zoomed in and got a great shot of Sacre Couer
from the clock window.

Never too old to have a nap on mom’s lap!

Alyssa had just said to me:  If only I could lie down just for a moment.
And Voila! A place to lie down for all of us.

At the apartment, we indulged in an indoor picnic of french baguette, a variety of cheeses and pates, and a delicious French wine that cost less than 3 euros, followed by a lovely afternoon nap.  What a luxurious way to spend a rainy afternoon.

Because of the rain, we decided to postpone our plans to visit the Eiffel Tower and instead we made our way to the Arche de Triomphe which was close to the restaurant where Chris had arranged my birthday dinner for the second seating at 10:15.  After a quick tour in the pouring rain around the Arche de Triomphe, we ducked into a lively bistro restaurant for pre-dinner drinks. It felt very Parisienne even though the place was probably full of tourists.

We ate dinner in a tiny French restaurant tucked away on a side street just around the corner from the Arche de Triomphe.  Our three course meal was perfect in every sense – taste, presentation, quality.  We had fun tasting each other’s selections.  The food was absolutely amazing and the ambience in the restaurant was intimate and cozy.  The waitresses were delightful, nothing like the snobbish waiters we have been warned about.  These girls spoke quite good English but were equally happy to speak to us in French when they saw we wanted to practice.  They were very down to earth and really made our night memorable.   We had the best table in the house, next to the window where we could gaze onto the dimly lit street, lined with orderly apartment buildings; we felt like we were on a movie set.  We closed the place down at 12:30.

Back at the apartment, my birthday celebration was far from over as we toasted my birthday with a bottle of champagne – sure it was well past midnight in Paris, but it was still my birthday in Ottawa, 6 hours earlier. Alyssa suggested we do something that was done for her on her 25th birthday last spring:  each person shares how they feel about the birthday person.  Chris began, followed by Andrew and then Alyssa.  They each expressed to me how they felt about me, things they admired in me, how I have influenced them positively…..it was very touching and endearing.  So often we don’t tell the people we love how we really feel about them, and why they mean so much to us.  Well, the three most important people in my life gave me those expressions of love – what a beautiful and memorable gift on my 50th birthday.

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Paris – before the kids arrive

July 28, 2012 Europe France

We arrived at our apartment in Paris around 6:00 on Wednesday evening.  The apartment was in the garment district in central Paris within walking distance to most tourist attractions.  We found the apartment on airbnb.com and we would recommend it with some caveats.  The apartment was large, especially by European standards with two bedrooms, a large living room, dining room and kitchen.  This was not a vacation apartment.  It was the home of a young family of four who rent out the apartment while they are at their summer home in the south of France.  So it gave us a really good sense of what it is like to live in Paris, if only for a week.   The apartment was very comfortable, albeit a little shabby around the edges.  The location was superb with a vast selection of restaurants, bars, grocery stores, clothing and shoe stores right around the corner.  It was also located on a street that was home to a group of “ladies of the night”.  We had been warned about this in advance so it was no surprise to us.  It was actually rather fascinating to observe the routine of these ladies, many of whom were old enough to be grandmothers.

Our first night was spent getting ourselves oriented, picking up food in preparation for the kids’ arrival, and exploring the neighbourhood and a little further afar.  We loved the location of our apartment as it was in a very lively, dynamic neighbourhood, just around the corner from the Metro and within walking distance of the Louvre, Notre Dame, Musée d’Orsay, and many other tourist attractions.  It was a thrill to walk along the Seine at dusk, to see the Louvre, and to wander through the Tuileries Garden; these were places I have read about and seen in movies and now here I was in person.

I’m in Paris, baby!

First glimpse of the Eiffel Tower in the distance.
It would be another couple of days before I got a closer view. 

We visited the musée Rodin the next day.  Auguste Rodin was an accomplished sculptor, who achieved fame and notoriety while still alive.  He had a vast collection of his own sculptures and drawings as well as several paintings by famous artists like Renoir and Monet.  He donated his complete collection of art to the French government on the condition that the government create a museum in the Hôtel Biron to showcase his work.  It was in this hotel where he lived and worked from 1908 until his death.  Incredibly, the government did not accept this generous offer immediately, but took many months before making a decision and then it took several more years of squabbling before the museum became a reality.  Sadly, Rodin had died in the interim amidst all the bickering and didn’t see his life ambition realized.  Today, the musée Rodin stands as a lasting legacy to the remarkable accomplishments of one man.  The museum (along with a second site just outside Paris at Rodin’s old home, the Villa des Brillants at Meudon) is home to a collection of over 6,600 sculptures, 8,000 drawings, 8,000 old photographs and 7,000 objets d’art.  Many of Rodin’s sculptures adorned the beautiful, tranquil gardens surrounding the museum.

The Thinker, by Rodin.

Later that day, we discovered an inspiring photo exhibit tucked away in the corner of the Tuileries Garden called “Through My Window” by the photographer Ahae. Over the course of two years, Ahae took no less than a million photographs—all from just one window of his studio—recording the countless episodes that took place within his view amongst the creatures with whom we share our planet. It was selections from these photographs that were on display.  What I found so amazing was that the scene outside his window did not appear at first glance to be all that special in and of itself, yet the photographs that were taken are simply stunning.

In the evening, we attended a concert held in  Sainte Chapelle, renowned for its stained glass windows.  The venue was intimate – only 12 rows of seats – and the two musicians (violin and harp) played an eclectic collection of classical music.  Outside, it poured relentlessly throughout the entire concert. 

 We did a lot of walking on that first day and really broke in our new “city” walking shoes.  What a great start to our trip.

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A soft landing in Newark, England

July 20, 2012 England Europe

After walking the Camino de Santiago, Chris and I felt drained both physically and emotionally.  I didn’t even feel like writing which was a sure sign of fatigue on my part.  (My apologies for such a long absence on the blog!)  We spent the first two weeks after the Camino enjoying some much needed rest and relaxation in Newark, England which is located in the East Midlands area, about an hour and half by train, north west of London.  Colin and Lynne, my niece Catherine’s in-laws, welcomed us warmly into their cozy, comfortable home and spent the first few days of our stay taking care of all our needs. Just to clarify, the photo to the left is not a photo of their house.

Each day we spent a few hours exploring the local attractions, visiting places like Wimpole Estate and Belton House, both of which are National Trust properties.   These are beautiful estates that have been donated to the National Trust and are cared for primarily by a large workforce of volunteer. The homes are huge, surrounded by gorgeous gardens, and offer a glimpse of what life would have been like for the privileged class in days by gone.  Interestingly, Prince Charles and Lady Diana considered buying Belton House (photo to the right) but in the end it was deemed unsuitable because the grounds were too difficult to secure.

The market town of Newark boasts the ruins of a castle
along the Trent river.

When we heard the Olympic Torch would be passing right by the house, we joined a large throng of flag-waving, patriotic neighbours of all ages who lined both sides of the street to catch a glimpse of the torch.  I don’t recall this kind of zeal when the torch for the 2010 Olympic Games passed through the streets of Ottawa, but that may have had more to do with the cold, wintry weather in the middle of December.  After watching the torch go by, Colin and Lynne invited some of their neighbours over for tea.  It was great to meet them and we really appreciated their offers to help us out during our visit.

Colin and Lynne have been so kind and nurturing towards us – not only have they generously given us the use of their house for five weeks, but they have also provided us with a car, and some much needed driving lessons for Chris. It is a challenge to get used to driving on the other side of the road…..all I’m going to say is that Chris has done remarkably well and we have the cleanest windshield in all of Britain (the windshield wipers are located where the blinkers would be in a Canadian car).

After a few days, Colin and Lynne departed for Canada where they are spending five weeks visiting their son Mark and his wife Catherine (my niece – now you see the connection!) Alone in the house, Chris and I proceeded to make ourselves at home.  We didn’t even leave the house for the first couple of days as we ate up all the lovely leftovers and raided Lynne’s pantry (which we’ll replenish before we leave, of course).  We just needed some down time and that’s what we had.  We then spent the better part of the next week getting caught up on the photos for our Camino blog entries and I did some website maintenance as well.  Each day we walked into the pretty town centre to pick up whatever we needed and perhaps stop for a coffee as well.  It was a very relaxing week however it rained every single day.  Now and then the sun would peak out and offer false hope that the rain was over.  In fact, the entire two weeks in England were wet, dreary and downright cold.

By the second week, we were ready to explore a little further afar and so we did some day trips into neighbouring towns of Lincoln and Nottingham – yes, famous for Robinhood and his merry men.  Sadly, there isn’t much left of Sherwood Forest these days but it is still a popular tourist attraction. I must admit, these excursions were a little nerve racking as we worked together to get us safely to our destination – Chris did the driving and I did the navigating.  Just when we figured we had mastered the roundabout, we came upon one that was multi-laned with traffic lights – now that threw us for a bit of a loop but we got through it safely – it helped that all the lights were green when we went through.

A selection of local beers that Colin thought Chris might enjoy.

After two weeks of rest and relaxation in England, Chris and I boarded a high speed train  to Paris for one week to celebrate my 50th birthday.

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Camino de Santiago: Day 28 (Christina)

June 26, 2012 Camino Christina Camino de Santiago Europe Spain

From Pedrouza to Santiago de Compostela (20 km)

I awake this morning at 6:30 to the sound of walking sticks on the street outside our window.  As I lie in bed and listen I feel quite excited about the day ahead.  And I think that I want to walk the final 20 km alone.  I know Chris will be disappointed about this because yesterday we said we would walk into Santiago together.  I lie in bed considering my choices – walk with Chris as planned and deny myself what I really want to do, or walk alone and disappoint Chris.  I decide it is important for me to walk alone.  This has been a solitary journey and I want to end it on my own as a strong and confident woman.

When I break the news to Chris, he is not happy but I hope he understands as I say good bye and tell him I’ll be waiting for him at the cathedral, in the courtyard.  I feel guilty about leaving on my own, but this is something I feel I must do.

I head down the street to where I think the Camino starts but I notice everyone going in the opposite direction.  I stop a girl to ask her which way is the Camino, and it is Veronica.  We are both surprised – for some reason we never recognize each other right away when we see each other, it’s very strange.  Anyways, she tells me I am going the wrong way so I turn around and we walk together.  She wants to get to Santiago for the noon Mass which is a special mass dedicated to the pilgrims that arrive each day.  We must walk quickly to get there in time so we step up our pace and soon we feel like we are flying, passing everybody.  We both feel energized and excited about getting to Santiago and I think adrenalin is spurring us on.

I haven’t had my morning coffee yet or breakfast for that matter so I know I’m going to need to stop at some point soon.  Veronica loves a good cup of coffee too so we make two quick stops along the way.

We both feel very strong, very empowered as we march confidently towards Santiago. We don’t talk too much this morning; we’re both absorbed in our own thoughts.  She does share with me another lesson she has learned on the Camino.  Since she lives in Burgos, and the Camino passes right through her city, she realizes she can walk the Camino at any time and in fact, she plans to do this whenever she needs to find clarity or to figure things out.  She can even just walk for a couple of days on the weekend.  This gives her comfort and confidence to face her future with optimism.  She tells me about her relationship that ended just before she began to walk the Camino.  She has come to terms with what has happened and is ready to face life again.  Such is the power of the Camino.

When I see my first glimpse of Santiago in the distance, I am so excited.  I am almost there.  It’s a long walk through the suburbs into the historic centre of town where the cathedral is located.  Just before I reach the cathedral, I see Sabina who had arrived yesterday and is now looking out for friends that are arriving.  We speak briefly but then I say I must go, the cathedral is just around the corner.  As I walk into the courtyard in front of the cathedral, I am overcome with emotion: relief, joy, happiness.  I am so happy to be here.  And then I see Chris in the centre of the courtyard and I head over to him.  I can’t believe he arrived before me.

Santiago in the distance…..almost there.

It’s a long walk through the suburbs.

I stand in the middle of the courtyard looking at all the people.  I stare at the Cathedral which certainly isn’t the most beautiful one I’ve seen but it certainly is the most significant one to me.  I actually feel a little dazed, maybe even confused.  Veronica leaves to find a bathroom, as does Chris and I am standing there alone.  A Camino friend sees me and offers to take my picture in front of the Cathedral.

I then head into the Cathedral where is is jam packed with people, tourists and pilgrims alike.  I manage to find a seat next to Chris.  I don’t see a thing and I don’t understand anything as it is all in Spanish, but I do feel it is important to be here, to show respect for the first saint who did a pilgrimage to Santiago.  Later, I walk to the Pilgrim’s Office to get my Compostela which is the official certificate issued by the Cathedral to all pilgrims who have walked at least the last 100 km of the Camino. I didn’t think this piece of paper would matter to me, but for some reason I treasure it and I buy a tube to protect it.  You see it is now official, I am a pilgrim.

And so ends my Camino journey at the steps of the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela.  Thank you to everyone who has been following me on this journey and offering me words and prayers of support along the way.  You have no idea how timely many of your comments and emails were, often giving me just the right amount of encouragement when I needed it the most.

When I began my Camino, I had no idea how it would unfold and I certainly didn’t expect the journey to be so raw, so personal, so emotional and so spiritual.  It challenged me in ways I never could have imagined.  I learned a lot about myself, and I think I have healed some old wounds in the process.  I have a feeling of peace and inner contentment which I hope I can continue to nurture.

While the Camino may have ended, our round the world trip is still in full swing.  So I hope you tag along for the rest of the journey.

 

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Camino de Santiago: Day 27 (Christina)

June 26, 2012 Camino Christina Camino de Santiago Europe Spain

From Arzua to Pedrouza (19.4 km)

Chris and I leave the Albergue at about 8:30 and we head straight for a restaurant/bar that is open and serving wine and beer to the party goers from the night before. We settle for coffee and a croissant and then hit the road.  We are both very tired and Chris is coming down with a cold.  So we walk slowly and take lots of breaks.  I see the three American women again and we all have coffee together.  I see pictures of grandchildren from the proud grandmother.  There aren’t too many familiar faces on the road today and it is very busy.

We’re not even walking 20 km today and it seems to drag on forever.  The weather has changed again and the days are much warmer now.  By 1:00 it is very hot on the Camino but most people have stopped walking by now so we enjoy the solitude. It’s official, this was the most uneventful day on the Camino.  I think I am just really tired now, and I just want to get to Santiago.  As I watch the Camino markers which appear every half a kilometre now, I am shocked to see such low numbers, yet it will still take another half day of walking to reach Santiago.

When we arrive in Pedrouza we decide to stay in a private room in a Pension for 30 Euros which is just 10 more than dorm beds.  Our room faces the busy main street and it is very noisy but at least we have a very comfortable, large bed to share and we even have a TV with one English channel.  We haven’t watched TV all month and in fact I have no idea what is going on in the world beyond the Camino.

We decide to eat our dinner early, around 5:00 and then we go back to our room and have a nap.  Our bodies are all mixed up when we awake around 8:30 and we find ourselves going out for a snack close to midnight.  It’s not a problem, everything is still open.  We finally go to sleep around 1:00 in the morning.

 

 

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Camino de Santiago: Day 26 (Christina)

June 26, 2012 Camino Christina Camino de Santiago Europe Spain

San Xulian do Camino to Arzua (25.4 km)

When I step out the Albergue door at 7:30 this morning, I am in the middle of a swarm of school children who are walking the Camino today.  I figure there must be a hundred kids and sure enough later on someone tells me there are indeed 100 kids from Madrid on the Camino. It is another very cold morning.

I walk alone all day today and don’t see a single soul that I know.  I chat in the cafes when I take a break, but don’t meet anyone I am really interested in getting to know.  The scenery is nothing spectacular either.  I am walking through lots of little villages similar to the one I slept in last night.  Often the trail passes right through someone’s farm.  The smells of the farm are very pungent.  This is probably the most uneventful day on the Camino so far and I’m thinking it will be the shortest blog entry too.

Some of the school kids taking a break with their support vans.

Arzua is a big town and I would prefer to stay in a smaller village but the next Albergue according to my notes is another 10 km away and I do not have it in me to go that far.  Besides I’m almost in Santiago, so there is no need to kill myself with excessive distances.

It is sometimes difficult to decide where to sleep when you are in a large town.  When there is just one Albergue, the decision is made for you.  But when there are dozens to choose from, it can be daunting.  This is how I picked my Albergue in Arzua.  First, when I stopped at the edge of town to read my notes, the one Albergue that sticks out is the one that says it is beautifully renovated and has good reports.  Then I look up and see an advertisement for that very Albergue.   So that is the one where I will stay.  It is unclear where it is so I head to the church from which I hope to see another sign.  Very strangely, I see a truck parked near the church and on the side of the truck there is a huge advertisement for the Albergue I am looking for.  Then as I pass the truck, there is actually a map on the back of it.  How weird is that!  Now I easily find the Albergue and sure enough it is very nice.

After the usual drill, I just walk out the Albergue door when I see Chris walking down the street.  We both laugh, what are the odds that we would both pick the same place and actually run into each other in a town this size.  I go back inside and Chris gets the bunk next to me.  There are no private rooms in this Albergue so it is bunkbeds for both of us tonight.  At least we are next to each other.  I lie down and wait for him to go through his routine and then we head out for food and drink where I run into Frances and Glenn who again are looking for beds and I direct them to my Albergue.  I also see the American girls from the previous night.  I introduce Chris to everyone.

Later that night, I see Veronica in the bathroom at the Albergue.  She and Andrei arrived late and now she tells me that there is a big fiesta in this town starting at midnight.  She even has the code to get back into the Albergue so it is possible to break curfew.  Well, I’ve been ready for a fiesta for a few days so I seize the opportunity.  We all head out around 9:30 and go for a few drinks as we make our way up to where the party will be.  When we arrive, there is a large castle built specifically for this party.  It’s about three stories high.

The party begins with some musicians and then a group of people dressed in capes parade around.  There is a honorary pilgrim for this fiesta; a young girl they have snatched from the Municipal Albergue.  There is some ceremony as she is donned with a cape like the others.  I bet she has no clue what is going on, but she seems to take it all in stride. There are a few speeches and then the fireworks begin.

Then suddenly the whole castle is on fire and everyone watches it burn to the ground.


After that, the food and wine comes out.  You can buy a cup on a string that you wear around your neck for just 10 Euros and that gives you unlimited food and drink.  It is about 1:30 am by now and the last thing I want to do is drink more alcohol or eat food.  Veronica buys a cup and she lets us all taste her food – tender, juicy ribs with potatoes and tiny sweet green peppers that have been roasted to perfection.  Much to Veronica’s disappointment I announce at around 2:00 am that I am ready for bed.  The party is just getting into full swing now, the band is playing (rather badly I must say) and I am told this will continue until the morning at which time everyone will go for breakfast and then come back to continue the party all day on Sunday.  But for now, my bed is calling me.

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Camino de Santiago: Day 25 (Christina)

June 26, 2012 Camino Christina Camino de Santiago Europe Spain

Portomarin to San Xulian do Camino (29 km)

I awake at 7:30 this morning, surprised I slept through the loud party below me.  When I am ready to leave at 8:30, I take a peak in the dorm and I am shocked by what a see.  The kitchen is a disaster with dirty pots and dishes everywhere.  The garden is even worse, littered with garbage, furniture turned upside down.  What a mess. And these so called pilgrims are snoring loudly in their beds.  Check out is at 9:00 in the morning. The owner is at the door and I ask him if his Albergue is for pilgrims, because maybe I just picked a tourist Albergue.  He said, of course, of course.  Then in my limited Spanish I express to him I was not happy there was such a loud party keeping us all awake.  He was very upset about these people as well and told me they partied until 2 in the morning.  He said these are tourists and they pretend to be pilgrims to get the pilgrim rates. He has never had this happen before, and then he pointed to them sleeping and the mess and it seemed he didn’t even know how to handle the situation.

When I get on the Camino, it is crowded again so I walk quickly and try to get ahead.  I hate being caught in the middle of a crowd.  Besides, I need to warm up as it is extremely cold this morning and very foggy too. As I make my way past the last couple in the crowd, the man calls out, “Antarctica, you have been there?”  He has seen the badge on my pack. I slow down and say yes, and then he asks me another question which surpasses my Spanish skills.  When he sees I don’t understand he quickly switches to English and asks me again.  He wants to know what it was like, what did I see, what did I do.  And this is the beginning of a new friendship with Andrei and Veronica.

Andrei and Veronica, my new companions today.

Andrei is Venezuelan but is now living in Spain.  He is 27 years old and has completed his psychology degree to the Masters level and is looking for work in his field. It is another story of a young person impacted by the terrible economy of Spain.  There just isn’t any work to be found. Veronica is 38 and is from Burgos where she works as an accountant.

We end up walking the entire day together enjoying each other’s company and interesting conversation.  We walk at a relaxed pace which I am happy with because I am still feeling a general overall fatigue.  In fact the day passes easily and I even walk further than I expected.

I think the most memorable subject we talked about was the concept of our own personal energy.  When I  describe my experience of feeling other people’s energy, I use the words positive and negative. Andrei offered a different way of looking at things.  He suggested that there is a spectrum of energy from negative at one end to positive at the other.  We can be at any place on the spectrum at any time.  This is true, we are never always positive or always negative.  When it comes to sensing the other person’s energy, he sees it as like being tuned into a person’s frequency and sometimes you are on the same frequency and sometimes you are not.  I really liked this explanation as it removed the labels.  So when you meet someone, rather than think oh, they have really positive energy, you can think that you are on the same frequency as their energy, assuming of course you too are positive.  Without the labels, a person can be positive one moment and negative the next without being branded as one way or the other.  It just seems to be a more flexible, non judgemental way of thinking.

Veronica shared one of the lessons she has learned so far on the Camino, one that I could relate to.  When we start our Camino, we meet a first group of people that we keep running into because we are all walking the same journey.  And we get comfortable with this first group sometimes to our own detriment where we are no longer open to new people we meet.  She decided at one point to say good bye to her first group and move on alone.  She found it very difficult to say good bye but she knew she was limiting herself by staying in the group.  And sure enough, she has met many new people since then.

We all notice today that the Camino doesn’t feel as touristy as yesterday, and we’re not sure why.  There are still lots of new faces on the road, including a group of three American women I meet.  I remember one of their names, Shelley, but the other two are forgotten. Many of these new pilgrims have started in Sarria and are walking the last 100 km to Santiago, some are even planning to go on to Finisterre which is another three days of walking to the ocean.  It seems quite strange to me that they are beginning, when I feel like my Camino is coming to an end.  I am enjoying the atmosphere on the Camino today even though it is still quite busy.

By the afternoon, we have the Camino to ourselves…..I am puzzled as to where everybody has gone.  We do not want to stay at the next large town, Palas de Rei.  I definitely don’t want to repeat what I went through last night.  There are several little villages within 5 km of Palas de Rei and I am confident I will find a bed in one of them.  Veronica and Andrei decide not to take any chances as it is getting on in the day so they call to an Albergue and make a reservation.  They offer to do the same for me but I tell them how I have been walking each day without a plan and I have always found a bed.  I prefer to just take my chances.

The last few kilometres in the day always seem to drag on.  It is late in the afternoon now, almost 5:00, and we are about 3 km past Palas de Rei.  Veronica and Andrei are a little frustrated that they haven’t reached their Albergue yet; it was supposed to be just 1 km from the town and everyone we meet keeps saying, just one kilometre away.  When we walk into San Xulian do Camino, there is an Albergue on the main street that looks really nice.  They have lots of beds.  I register but Veronica and Andrei keep going since they feel obligated to honor their reservation; besides, it’s only one more kilometre down the road.  So we exchange our contact information and say our good byes.

San Xulian do Camino is a tiny little village that is really nothing more than a collection of houses.  It does have a church and an Albergue, but no other services that I can see.  The Albergue also has a bar and offers a communal dinner for 10 Euros which I sign up for.  The woman running the Albergue is from Barcelona and when I compliment her on the beautiful building she tells me it is very, very old and was left abandoned for about 50 years.  Her and her husband just finished the renovations last year.  She said the renovations were so much work, and running the Albergue was a lot more work than she thought it would be.  It sounded like she may have been pining away for her life back in Barcelona a little.  Anyways, I was grateful for this beautiful Albergue, and for being in a dorm room with just five other women.  An older Australian man was assigned to a different dorm room, and a young couple that arrived a little later were given yet another dorm.  I like it when people get spread out; chances of a good night’s sleep increase significantly.

Quite modest on the outside, but very comfortable inside.

Bedrooms are across the street.  
My dorm has the window with the flower boxes.

I meet the girls in my dorm – two sisters from the US, a German girl, who wore a red ball cap that said Canada on it, and a Hungarian woman who is living in the States with her husband.  In true Camino style, we all shared why we were on the Camino and some of our Camino stories.

We also got a real taste for life in such a little village.  First, tractors from the fields keep passing by; one in particular was moving large bales of hay from a field at one end of the village to a field at the other end, one by one.  Back and forth he went.  Then the cows walked through town just before we sat down for dinner and again as we were getting ready for bed, and I swear we could stick our hands out of our window and touch them.

Our communal dinner is delicious: soup, salad, pork chops, tortilla, desert, bread, unlimited wine.  I feel I have hit the jackpot in this Albergue, it is everything an Albergue could be.  I have no trouble falling asleep tonight on a full belly in the peace and quiet of the countryside.

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Camino de Santiago: Day 24 (Christina)

June 24, 2012 Camino Christina Camino de Santiago Europe Spain

From Sarria to Portomarin (22 km)

I dilly dally this morning and don´t get on the road until 8:30.  I had a great sleep in my private room last night and actually sleep in until 7:30.  I pop into the Albergue that did my laundry to check my email and then I stop again for breakfast.  I couldn´t resist the breakfast buffet on offer, such a nice change from the usual breakfast of coffee and white toast or croissant.  There was fresh fruit, yogurt, granola, an assortment of juices, cakes and toast.

The weather is strange this morning.  The air is quite crisp, and there are big clouds in the sky, some even threaten rain.  But when the sun peeks through, it is quite hot.  I can´t get comfortable this morning, I am either too hot or too cold.  And it doesn´t  help that the trail is still very hilly, so I get really hot as I go up, and then cool off as I go down.  The scenery is just as beautiful as yesterday.  But today I feel quite tired and I walk more slowly than usual.

View of Sarria as I leave town.

The Camino is very crowded today. Sarria is about 110 km from Santiago and many people start their journey here.  It feels very touristy all of a sudden where people are wearing their city clothes and city shoes, they look and smell fresh and clean, they are talking on their cell phones, carry little day packs or even handbags.  You can easily spot the pilgrims who have been walking many days….we don´t look too clean, and we probably don´t smell all that great either.  Our packs are larger and definitely more worn out.  Everyone I talk to today is talking about the change of atmosphere on the Camino….and we are very disappointed with this change.  It seems like we are in the middle of a tourist attraction now.

The 100 km marker is popular – everyone wants a picture of it.
I can’t believe I am so close to Santiago, but still days away. 

Five km from Portomarin, I run into Arpad, one of my new Camino friends and one of the pilgrims I had dinner with a few nights ago when Alex was trying to get a rise out of me over taking the bus.  He is still walking very slowly, but I decided to slow down to his pace and walk into Portomarin with him.  We have such an interesting conversation along the way.  First he observes what a spiritual person he thinks I am based on the way I handled Alex and the bus issue. We talk a lot about being in the present, in the moment.  We hear this so much these days, but it really is difficult to practice.  He talks about not being attached, which he believes is the way to real happiness and contentment.  He follows the teachings of a spiritual leader named Eckhart Tolle, a German who lives in Canada.  He is surprised I have never heard of him. I must admit I find many of the concepts he is talking about quite difficult to grasp and he urges me to listen to Tolle.  I am quite fascinated by these new ideas.

Even though we are walking so slowly, time flies as we are engrossed in such a deep and meaningful conversation.  Once we arrive in Portomarin, he continues on and I look for a place to sleep.  The first Albergue I look at also offers private rooms and again I opt for my own room.  It costs twice as much as a dorm bed, but it is still cheap at 20 Euros.  I notice that I am in a self-nurturing place and I am happy I am taking such good care of myself.  This journey has been long and hard, and I am tired now.  So a little bit of comfort goes a long way to making the remaining days easier to cope with.

After the usual routine, I settle on a patio for some food and drink.  Here I meet new pilgrims, it is so easy to meet people and start a conversation because we all have this common bond, the Camino.  As I finish my meal, I notice Frances and Glenn walk into the main square.  I head over to say hi and mention where I am staying.  Sure enough, they check it out and take the private room next to me.  We are all laughing about how they now know to just hold back and let me stake out the rooms because I always seem to find a good one for all of us.

A group of tourist pilgrims which is what I call these new, not so serious pilgrims on the Camino check into the Albergue.  I hope I don´t sound too judgemental, because I don´t mean it in a negative way, just to distinguish those who are walking the Camino as a tourist attraction versus those who are walking it for other reasons.  Well, the tourist pilgrims take over the entire downstairs dorm including the garden.  They are having a big party, and are cooking up a storm at 10:30 at night.  Now you have to understand, most Albergues have lights out at 10:00 and they rigidly enforce this rule.  Besides, we are usually so tired that many are already asleep well before lights out.  I am really surprised to see this new group having a party and I feel very sorry for the few pilgrims in the dorm who are trying to sleep.

It is so noisy now and I am feeling a little irritated.  I go to the hospitalero and ask what time is lights out.  She says 11:00, but I doubt this party is going to end as it is just revving up.  At 11:30, this group are well on their way to getting drunk and are hollering and yelling in the garden.  I am so not impressed.  I get the second pillow and put it over my head, and practice my deep breathing which has become a very effective way to put myself to sleep.  Within moments I am fast asleep, and sleep right through the night in spite of the loud party below.

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Camino de Santiago: Day 23 (Christina)

June 24, 2012 Camino Christina Camino de Santiago Europe Spain

From Triacastela to Sarria (22 km)

Sabina fills me in this morning about the Japanese pilgrim who had collapsed at my feet yesterday.  The ambulance arrived after 23 minutes and when he was carried out in the stretcher, he was all smiles waving to everyone. Seems like he was going to be ok, tragedy averted.

I examine my feet before starting out and can hardly believe that I have no new blisters and all my other blisters are in various stages of healing.  And I have no pain in my feet this morning when I take my first few steps.  A lightness has settled in my heart and I as I set out at around 8:00 this morning, I think it is going to be an easy day.

Day 23 and no bandaids!  Woohoo!

It is another cold and foggy start to the day, very humid too.  Lots of up and down over the moutain through beautiful scenery.  I am reminded of the cloud forest in Mindo, Ecuador although it is much colder.  The vegetation is lush and everything is wet from the mist.  It is a long walk to my first cup of coffee, 14 km this morning.

Today I reflect on some of the things that have happened on the Camino. What happened on the road to Astorga still puzzles me but I can now see how that was a turning point in my journey, the point after which I started to heal.  I must admit that I have felt the presence of a strong force or energy on the Camino. Perhaps it has been because of my openness that I have felt this energy, I am not really sure.  I don´t even know what to call it: it feels like a strong energy that draws me towards people or  pushes me away.  Is this what people call God?  I have experienced it as a strong energy, without personality, just something beyond our physical selves.  I am reluctant to call this God because that conjures up too much from my past.  When I think of God, I think of religion and what I have experienced on the Camino has nothing to do with religion.  I have had a spiritual journey without a doubt, but not religious in any sense.

I have suffered much physical pain and I have faced a lot of emotional pain as well.  As my feet are healing, so too is my spirit.  I feel a greater force has been at play throughout this journey.  I used to think that life is just full of random coincidences but it seems impossible for me to explain all the has happened to me on the Camino as randomness.  I know my heart was closed tight after my Jehovah´s Witness experience, but now I think it has been opened, if only just a crack.  I began the Camino as an atheist, and that has not changed.  But now I will concede that perhaps there is a force greater than us that I will call an energy although I´m sure some will call it God (but I won´t, I hope you understand).

So I have experienced this energy on the Camino, although I have never witnessed it in my day to day life.  Maybe one needs to be open to it to let it move us, to move through us.  There is so much to think about as I walk on the Camino this morning.  The path this morning winds through forests that are shrouded in mist, quite magical.  I feel a lightness of heart this morning, like I want to celebrate, to rejoice.

What to do when a herd of cattle are heading your way?  Yield, of course.
Especially when they have big horns!

When I finally reach a place to have a coffee, Alex and Arpad are already there.  Alex tells me there is a fiesta in Sarria tonight and I think I am ready for a party and think that perhaps I will stop at Sarria today, even thought I think I can walk further.

As I make my way towards Sarria, I think I would like to stay in a private room tonight, a little bit of pampering.  I don´t need anything fancy, just a little room with a single bed, that has a locked door.  I begin to imagine my little room where I will stay tonight, in fact, I have a very clear picture in my mind of what it looks like.  I am certain I will find my room in Sarria; the Camino has not let me down yet!

When I arrive in Sarria, I am surprised at how large this town is.  I pass by a big hotel but don´t even bother to take a look at their rooms.  I know they will be expensive and an impersonal hotel room is not what I have in mind.  I stop into a ¨Pension¨ that advertises rooms (as opposed to beds) and I am disappointed to learn rooms start at 45 Euros, a little more than I wanted to pay.  I describe to the man at the Pension that I am looking for a little room, nothing fancy, don´t need a private bath, just a little room with a little bed and some privacy.  Well, he suggests I stop in at a restaurant a block up the street, he thinks the lady there might be able to help me.

When I walk into the restaurant, Camino Frances, there is no indication that they have beds or rooms, it is just a little mom and pop restaurant.  I ask the lady if she has a room.  Yes, she does, and she takes me upstairs to take a look. She has four rooms that she rents, and as I enter the hallway to the rooms, I notice how sparkling clean the floor is, and how everything smells of fresh laundry. When she opens to the door to my room, it is the exact room I have been imagining all morning – small, modest, simple bed, window, and a locked door.  And it is only 15 Euros.  Sold!

I now learn that the woman and her husband are French speaking which is a bonus for me, now I can communicate with much more ease.  When I explain I want to do my laundry in a  machine – washer and dryer – she says she will take me to another Albergue up the street and arrange it.  So for 6 Euros, I get all my clothes and towel washed and dried.

The French lady who was so kind and helpful.

Now that the laundry is taken care of, and I´ve already had my shower, I sit down to eat at a table outside the restaurant.  As soon as I sit down, Sabina walks up the street and joins me for a snack.  I haven´t seen her since the Albergue this morning.  She is continuing on to the next town.  We then see Alex who is eating lunch at another restaurant nearby.  And then Frances and Glenn stroll up, ask if the food is good, and decide to have their lunch here as well.  Finally, Arpad walks by, he is slower because of a bad knee, but he too is continuing on.  He doesn´t want to stop, because it looks like rain and he wants to miss it if he can.

Just as I finish my lunch, and say good bye to Sabina and Alex, it starts to rain.  I am so glad my clothes are not hanging on a line outside today.  Glenn and Frances head indoors to finish their lunch and I go to my room for a nap.  When I awaken, I am surprised to see Glenn and Frances have decided not to walk in the pouring rain, but are staying in the room next to me.  They got the room for 25 Euro which is only 5 Euro more than two dorm beds.  They love their room, especially the window that looks out over the countryside.

Now I head out into the rain to look for an internet cafe.  I am wearing my blue plastic poncho that has been salvaged with duct tape and headphone wire, but it is ripping in new places.  It is pouring now, coming down in buckets, and I think my poncho is on it´s last legs.  I stumble upon a great trekking store that has everything you could imagine, including good rain gear and foot wear.  Now that my feet on on the mend, I decide not to bother looking at the shoes, but I do end up buying a rain coat that will cover my back pack.  It is a good brand (Altus) – the brand I remember that was recommended on the Camino forums – and it was only 28 Euros.  I figured it was worth it for the peace of mind.  I asked the lady in the store to take a picture of me in my plastic poncho before I throw it in the garbage.  As I walk out into the rain in my new raincoat, I think I can handle any kind of weather that will come my way over the next week.

Saying goodbye to my cheap plastic poncho
in the shop where I splurge on a good one.

I find the internet cafe which also has a bar so I get to enjoy a nice cold beer while I knock off three more posts.  I hate getting so behind on the blog, but getting access to a decent computer and internet is so unpredictable.  Now I’mm only a couple of days behind, and I feel much better.

At 9:00 I head back to the restaurant and have a small dinner, not the pilgrim’s menu.  A large plate of pasta with tomato sauce, tuna, and melted cheese along with two glasses of wine sets me back a mere 5 Euros.  As I eat, I write today’s journal entry before calling it a night.  I am so comfortable and cozy in my little room enjoying simple little pleasures like being able to turn the light off when I am ready to.  Oh, and about that party, apparently it is not until the weekend, I’ll be long gone but who knows maybe there will be a party in the next town.

 

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Camino de Santiago: Day 22 (Christina)

June 21, 2012 Camino Christina Camino de Santiago Europe Spain

From La Faba to Triacastela (25.5 km)

During the night I decided to switch beds because I was surrounded by loud snorers, and there was no back support in my bed.  I’m sure I was breaking all sorts of rules but it was the middle of the night and the German lady was nowhere to be seen.  I went to the other end of the room where Sabina was sleeping – she had unwittingly settled into a bunk without the German lady’s permission and somehow managed to stay there even though she was asked to move.  I slept much better at that end of the room but I was quick to move back to my bunk at sunrise.

I still managed to get myself in trouble that morning when I had the nerve to put a bandaid on one of my toes in the kitchen.  German lady swooped in just before the bandaid went on and insisted I leave the kitchen.  I got rather annoyed with her because there was nowhere else to go where I could sit down and have proper lighting.  I told her this in English and with gestures and with a tone that made it clear I was not happy.  Well, to her credit, she found me a chair in the entrance way and made room on a shelf so I could put my medical kit somewhere.  Like I said yesterday, I think she meant well, she just came across rather rigid and harsh.

I am happy to get out of there at 7:30 when I begin my trek up the second half of the mountain.  It is a beautiful morning, the sun is rising and there is mist on the distant hills.  Absolutely glorious.  My feet are feeling good, only two bandaids on my little toes today.  Life is looking pretty damn good.  I reach the top of the mountain around 9:30 and stop in the town for a coffee. This little town is incredibly touristy with shops already open with all kinds of Camino souvenirs for sale.

In the coffee shop, I meet Dawn and Deana who are in a bit of a bind – they have forgotten their passports and all their money back at the albergue.  Well, we are sure their stuff will be safe with the German lady but they need to find a way to contact her.  They are asking if anyone has the phone number of the albergue but no one does.  Sabina arrives and she has the phone number and she speaks both German and English so she is the hero of the day.  Sure enough the German lady has found the girls’ belongings and she assures Sabina they are safe with her.  She even offers to bring them up the mountain at 11:00 later in the morning.  Sabina gives the girls some money so they can pay their restaurant bill, and all is good again.  The girls head over to the church to thank God for the angels that have been sent their way this morning.

While all this drama unfolds in the coffee shop, the weather changes dramatically outside; a thick fog rolls in and the temperature drops significantly.  The fog is like a wet mist, so I bundle up in my rain jacket before heading back out on the Camino.  I am on the top of the mountain now, but the terrain is still very hilly as I traverse the mountain to the other side.  The path is beautiful though, very lush like walking through a rain forest.  Now and then the fog clears, showing off spectacular views of the valleys below.  The cows have their bells on again, reminding me of the days I walked through the Pyrenees mountains.  I actually stop at one point and video tape the cows, their bells were making the sweetest melody imaginable.

Somewhere along the road, I meet up with Sabina and we walk together the rest of the way.  She tells me a little about herself: born in Germany but currently working in Denmark as a translator (her English is perfect), she is 43 years old, never married, no children, but adores her nieces and nephews.  She has recently quit her job and is planning to relocate back to Germany, closer to her family.  She was a little upset about the way the German lady was treating everybody at the Albergue, and she vents a little.  She didn’t like being made to feel like a child.  We both agreed that the woman was well intentioned, but really missed the mark in making people feel welcome.

We arrive in Triacastela around 4:00 which is a little later than normal (lots of breaks today) and we wonder if there will be a problem getting a bed.  No, there are lots of beds in this little town.  After the usual routine, we head down to a bar for a beer (guess that’s part of my usual routine too 🙂 There we meet Alex from England and Angel from Spain, both unemployed and both are talking about doing another Camino as it is a pretty cheap way to live, under 30 Euros a day.  Arpod from Hungary joins us later at the table.  Sabina knows these guys, but this is the first time I have met them.  We end up having dinner together.  The food in this region of Galicia is markedly different, and better than what we’ve been eating so far.  Even the bread has changed and is now a lovely chewey texture.  The house wine is delicious too.

When Alex hears I have taken the bus, he tells me I´m not a real pilgrim and tries to give me a hard time, sort of joking but also a little serious.  He is definitely a purist and taking a bus is definitely against his rules.  I resort to humour to lighten the conversation, saying jokingly, show me the rule book, maybe we have different rule books.  Still I can see he thinks less of me because I have taken the bus, and I really don’t care.  I tell him that it is the journey that is important to me, not the number of kilometres I have actually walked.  I hold my head high and refuse to be intimidated or worse, shamed by him for taking a bus.  Frances has now joined our table as well (remember the brother and sister pair I met on the bus).  Both Sabina and Frances have taken the bus, but neither offer this information – maybe they’ve already had this conversation with Alex.

Alex then tells us  a story of how he walked the 8 km into Burgos after a long 32 km day only to find all the beds were taken when he arrived at the Municipal Albergue.  He says bitterly that all the cheating pilgrims who took the bus got the beds and there wasn’t a single one left for him.  He actually walked on to the next town.  I asked him why he didn’t take a bus. He replied that when he began his pilgrimage he made a rule that he would walk every kilometre, no matter what.  He admitted it was his pride and ego that day that prevented him from bending his rule.  Now he is bitter and resentful towards pilgrims like us at the table.  I look at him squarely in the eyes and suggest perhaps the Camino was trying to teach him something.  He gives me a strange look but the moment is lost because of what happens next.

I suddenly feel a dead weight push against my chair – an older Japanese pilgrim has collapsed right behind me.  I feel the full weight of his body pinning me against the table.  A rush of people come to his aid.  He tries to stand only to collapse again, this time scraping his legs on the pavement.  Someone calls an ambulance, and a few minutes later, he is able to get up and they take him into the restaurant to wait for the ambulance.  Frances astutely observes there are signs that he is having a stroke.

We are all shaken by this incident.  We have seen the crosses along the Camino where people have actually died during their pilgrimage and we are hoping we haven´t witnessed yet another fatality.  Alex now tells us another story of man who died on the Camino (I don´t remember when this happened).  The man had been walking for several days and was telling people how happy he was.  At the age of 50, he had just completed his psychology degree and was excited to be embarking on a new career.  One night on the Camino, he went to sleep and never woke up again.  What did he die of, I asked.  Alex suggested he either died of too much happiness or old age.  And he was dead serious.

At this point, I am feeling quite fatigued so I make my exit and head back to the Albergue where I get ready for bed.  It has been a good day for me, the first day where there have been no new blisters.  I figure my feet are going to be perfect by the time I stroll into Santiago.  I notice that not only are my feet healing, but my heart and spirit are healing too.  I feel a deep inner peace that I have never felt before.  I don´t know what the next few days will bring, but I feel like the hardest part is now behind me.  I think (hope) it will be clear sailing ahead.

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