England

Enroute to Ireland

Bath Abbey

We’re sitting in the airport in Bristol, England waiting to board our flight to Ireland which we have just learned has been delayed by 4 hours.  I see this delay as a bit of a blessing as I’m feeling rather unprepared for our upcoming three week road trip in Ireland. I’d like to do more research to figure out a loose itinerary.  As of this moment, we don’t even know if we want to go north towards Belfast and travel the perimeter in a counter-clockwise direction, or if we should go south in the opposite direction. We haven’t booked anything other than a rental car so we are entirely flexible, which is probably a good thing since who knows when we’re going to get there today.  I’d love to hear from our Irish friends as well as others who have been to Ireland to get your suggestions of what you think we should see and do.

In the meantime, I can share with you what we’ve been up to during our last two weeks in England.  After both kids left for home, we spent one final week in Newark-on-Trent in our home base.  We didn’t do too much that final week, and nothing too interesting.  Mundane chores like cooking, laundry, housecleaning and gardening kept us occupied that week.  The car insurance had ended as well which kept us close to home.  The weather was still wet and cold most days, with just shorts periods of sunshine here and there. It has been one of the wettest summers on record in contrast to one of the hottest, driest summers back home in Canada.  But the Olympics had started and we took advantage of our down time to watch many events on TV.  At first we were a little annoyed by the partial coverage on the BBC…..”Team GB” as the UK team was known was watched closely whether they were coming in first or ninth.  Sometimes, we didn’t even see who had won because the camera was glued to the Team GB athlete coming in third.  But soon we found ourselves cheering for “Team GB”, especially since Canada was trailing so far behind in most events.

Next on our itinerary was a visit to another cousin (Lulu) who lives with her family close to Windsor, about 45 minutes west of London by train, and my Aunt Maureen (Lulu’s mom) who lives in Windsor.  I had met Lulu back in 2004 when I visited England with my mom and dad and youngest brother, Jim.  The 2004 trip was a week-long tour of England visiting all my relatives on my dad’s side, followed by a week-long tour of Germany, visiting all my relatives on my mom’s side.  When I met Lulu back then, we hit it off right away, so I was really looking forward to seeing her again.

In preparing for our visit, Lulu had mentioned they were just finishing up a long renovation on their 16th century manor house.  And what a renovation it was!  The addition on the back of the house is nothing short of stunning, yet the front of the house retains all the charm and period features of the original house.  They have achieved a perfect blend of old and new.  Both Chris and I were inspired by what they have done, and I could see Chris chomping at the bit for a new project to sink his teeth into.

We were warmly welcomed by Lulu’s family – husband Sean, teenaged daughters Scarlet and Octavia and their son, Columbus who is ten, and their sweet cat, Spartacus.  We also had the chance to visit with Lulu’s older brothers: Mike and his wife Sara, and John and his partner Charlotte and her two children.  I had met both of my cousins (Mike and John) in 2004 and it was great to see them again.

Michael (left), Shawn (right), Sarah (left), Lulu (middle) and me on the right.

During our visit, we spent a few hours in Windsor, home to Windsor Castle, the primary residence of Queen Elizabeth and Prince Phillips. Unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to visit the Castle, something we hope to do when we return to England after our Ireland tour.  I had plenty of time to chat with my Aunt Maureen and I was happy to listen to her stories about both her childhood as well as Lulu’s.  My aunt is almost 80, yet she is so spry and energetic and sharp as a tack.  She has been following our travels through our blog and often sends me emails to share with me her thoughts about our travels as well as her own travel experiences.  I think she is one of our biggest fans, and I am definitely one of hers.

Aunt Maureen and I in front of my cousin Lulu’s house.

Throughout the weekend, we talked a lot about our travels (hopefully not too much!)  Everyone had so many questions. Columbus, in particular, seemed quite interested in the faraway places we have been, the things we have done and the exotic animals we have seen.  I was really impressed with all the children – they were so polite, well-mannered, and good conversationalists.  Columbus was simply adorable and I’m sure he would have jumped into Chris’ backpack to join us on an adventure if he could have.

Our weekend at Lulu’s passed far too quickly, in fact, we even delayed our departure by a few hours because it just felt too rushed.  We are planning to return for a few days at the end of the month.

Our final stop was Bath, where we spent a couple of days exploring this city renowned for the ancient Roman baths in the centre of town.  We visited the Roman Baths during the evening when there weren’t many crowds.  As the evening light faded, and the soft torch light illuminated the main bath, the atmosphere was magical.  We joined the last guided tour of the evening and were amazed at the history of the baths that date back to pre-Roman times.  The next day, we joined a walking tour and learned the colorful history of Bath through to the Victorian Ages.  Later that day, we spent a few hours relaxing in the thermal spring waters of the municipally run Thermae Spring Spa.  It was wonderfully relaxing.

On our last morning we toured the Bath Abbey, the third such church that has been built on the same site over the course of history.  It is a bright, beautiful church with many gorgeous stained glass windows.  What I enjoyed the most, however, was reading the inscriptions on the memorial stones that adorned one wall of the Abbey.  Many of the writings dated back to the 1600’s and were written in a form of English (vocabulary and spelling) that was slightly different from modern day English (for instance “f” was used in place of “s”).  The often endearing and descriptive expressions themselves offered such a lovely tribute to the deceased. It was so much nicer than the usual name, date of birth, and date of death which is so common on most headstones.

And so here we are still waiting for our plane….we have just learned it has been delayed for yet another 2 hours.  Who knows, we may not be going anywhere tonight!  Next up, our adventures in Ireland.

Travel Tip:  If you travel by train to Bath, check out the current 2 for 1 promotions offered by the First Great Western train line.  You need to complete an online voucher, print it and present it when purchasing your entrance ticket.  Note that some establishments don’t even require you to show your train ticket so even if you didn’t travel by train, you may be able to use the voucher, not that I’m recommending you do that.

Travel Tip:  If travelling by train in the UK, purchase your tickets as far in advance as possible as prices will vary tremendously.  For instance, Lynne and Colin purchased 2 return tickets to York for us as a gift.  The price difference between those tickets and the ones we purchased for the kids at the last minute was 25 pounds each way!  So it pays to buy early.

The family vacation continues in the UK

We left Paris at noon on Wednesday under warm, sunny skies and we were greeted with gloomy,  rainy weather as soon as the train emerged from the chunnel onto British soil.  How disappointing!  We arrived back “home” in Newark-on-Trent by mid-afternoon, giving us plenty of time to give the kids a tour around the town centre.  That evening, we  cooked dinner together and enjoyed our first home made family dinner in almost a year.  It was a much needed early night as we had a full day ahead of us travelling to York which is a mere 45-minute train ride from Newark, making it an easy day trip.

York is an old city, founded by the Romans in 71 AD, under the name of Eboracum.  The city centre is enclosed by medieval walls, which are a popular walk.  There is also a castle and castle museum, and a beautiful cathedral, York Minster.  I think we were all a bit tired from our Paris trip, and in need of a slower pace so we spent our day leisurely meandering through the narrow alleyways of this medieval town, exploring the unique shops and enjoying the local pub fare. Alyssa loves antique jewellery and was thrilled to discover York to be a haven of antique dealers.  We especially enjoyed The Shambles which is a narrow medieval street full of shops, boutiques, and tea rooms.  Chris and Andrew spent some time taking pictures but then decided to discover more of the local brew in a few pubs.

The Shambles

The medieval wall around York.
(Photo courtesy of Alyssa) 

The pub where we enjoyed a typical English lunch of
bangers and mash with a pint, of course. 

Pub instructions – handy info as these applied to every pub we went into.
(Photo courtesy of Alyssa) 

Lunchtime in a pub in York
(Photo courtesy of Alyssa) 

Pouring a pint

One of several pubs Andrew and Chris enjoyed.

Yet another pub….and another pint.
(Photo courtesy of Andrew) 

Friday was a free day where we spent a little more time exploring Newark and just taking it easy, enjoying the comforts of our home base.

A wedding at the castle ruins in Newark.
(Photo courtesy of Alyssa) 

On Saturday, Alyssa and I left early by train to London where we spent the day sightseeing.  We followed the itinerary prepared by my friend Pauline, from the Camino, who lives in London.  She put a lot of thought and effort into her London in a Day guide for us, with photos of landmarks to help us stay oriented, custom maps, historical background info, funny stories, and restaurant recommendations.  It served us well and Alyssa is keeping it as a souvenir of her day in London.  We hit all the major tourist sites – London Bridge, Borough Market, Buckingham Palace, the Parliament Buildings, Westminster Abbey, St. Paul Cathedral – we saw it all.  (All photos below courtesy of Alyssa, unless of course she is in the photo, in which case I took the photo with her camera 🙂

Tower Bridge – ready for the 2012 Olympics

Alyssa on London Bridge with “The Shard” in the background.

The Gherkin Building

The Globe Theatre

St. Paul’s Cathedral
(where Princess Diana and Prince Charles were married)

Borough Market

So what did we think of London?  Interestingly, we shared the same impression: it seemed very congested and cramped, a real hodge podge of buildings crammed into every conceivable nook and cranny.  It was very crowded with tourists in part I imagine because of the Olympics that would begin the following week, not to mention the fact that we were visiting in the peak of the tourist season.  We found some of the iconic buildings like Buckingham Palace to be somewhat of a let down, in much the same way as we felt when we saw the White House in person – it was so small in real life compared to how it is portrayed in the media.  We’re glad we saw the highlights of the city but neither of us feel compelled to spend more time exploring it, although I’m sure it has a lot more to offer.

At the end of the day, we made our way by bus to our hotel in Gatwick close to the airport.  Alyssa was taking an early flight the next morning.

Buckingham Palace

Fountain in front of Buckingham Palace

Guard at Buckingham Palace

Westminster Abbey

The Eye

The Parliament Buildings as seen from the Eye.

Chris and Andrew stayed behind in Newark and spent the weekend enjoying the pubs of Newark (no driving involved) and they also visited Nottingham in search of the castle.  Turns out, there isn’t much left of the castle which explains why Chris and I didn’t see it when we were in Nottingham a few weeks ago.

Oldest inn in England dating back to 1189!

Nottingham – home to Robinhood.

Robinhood

Castle wall in Nottingham.

The canal in Nottingham.

After seeing Alyssa off on Sunday morning (yes, there were tears), I headed back into London to spend a few hours with Pauline, before returning to Newark by train. Pauline and I spent a quiet day together, getting caught up on each other’s news since we parted on the Camino.  We enjoyed the unusually warm and sunny day as we walked around her neighbourhood in East London and then just relaxed in a lovely park.  I was back in Newark before dinner which Andrew prepared for us – delicious chicken wraps.

On Monday morning, we were back at the train station, this time heading north to Edinburgh, Scotland to visit my cousin Andrew and his wife Jen.  I had met Andrew briefly back in 2004 when I  visited the UK with my parents and youngest brother, Jim.  When I let my cousin know we were planning to visit Edinburgh, he generously invited us to stay with him even though we had never met his wife, nor did we really know each other.  We had a great time getting to know them, as well as his sister, Susan who I had never met before.  We even dropped in on a distant relative, Bill Baber, who has a knitwear shop in downtown Edinburgh.  Bill is keenly interested in his ancestry and is in the process of creating a family tree.  He casually pulled out the family tree from a high shelf in his shop and I was able to show him where I fit in. Bill was quite pleased that we had dropped by to say hello. Both my cousin Andrew and my son Andrew are also researching our family history.  There are lots of unanswered questions about our past.

Jen, who is Canadian, introduced us to Scottish food: she served us haggis one night and blood pudding for breakfast the next day.  The haggis was actually pretty good, and both Andrew and Chris enjoyed the blood pudding.  As for me, I found the blood pudding to be rather tasty, but I just couldn’t get past the idea of what I was eating.  Jen went out of her way to make sure we had a good time (while Andrew was at work), driving us here and there, showing us the sights.  One of the highlights, at least for Chris and Andrew, was a visit to a local scotch distillery where we observed how scotch is made, and of course, after the tour, we sampled a variety of single malts.  In the evenings, we visited with my cousin Andrew over a dram or two of scotch.

Downtown Edinburgh.

At the top of Arthur’s Seat – a hill in the 
middle of Edinburgh that offers spectacular 360 degree views of the area. 

Blood pudding for breakfast, with poached eggs and toast.

This is what blood pudding looks like up close!

Edinburgh Castle high on the hill.

With my cousin Andrew and Jen outside their house in Edinburgh.

Dinner with my cousins, Susan (left) and Andrew and Jen. 

With my cousin Susan (centre) and Jen, Andrew’s wife.

On Wednesday afternoon, we said our good byes to my Andrew as he boarded a train to London from where he took the bus to Gatwick where he stayed overnight before flying home on Thursday.

And so concluded our 2012 family vacation.  The kids are already talking about meeting us in Thailand next year, but we’re not making any promises just yet.  When the time comes, we’ll see where we are and how much money is left in the travel kitty 🙂

Travel Tip:  If you need to get to Gatwick airport from London, consider taking the bus.  It’s dirt cheap (from 2 pounds per person each way), comfortable and flexible.

A soft landing in Newark, England

After walking the Camino de Santiago, Chris and I felt drained both physically and emotionally.  I didn’t even feel like writing which was a sure sign of fatigue on my part.  (My apologies for such a long absence on the blog!)  We spent the first two weeks after the Camino enjoying some much needed rest and relaxation in Newark, England which is located in the East Midlands area, about an hour and half by train, north west of London.  Colin and Lynne, my niece Catherine’s in-laws, welcomed us warmly into their cozy, comfortable home and spent the first few days of our stay taking care of all our needs. Just to clarify, the photo to the left is not a photo of their house.

Each day we spent a few hours exploring the local attractions, visiting places like Wimpole Estate and Belton House, both of which are National Trust properties.   These are beautiful estates that have been donated to the National Trust and are cared for primarily by a large workforce of volunteer. The homes are huge, surrounded by gorgeous gardens, and offer a glimpse of what life would have been like for the privileged class in days by gone.  Interestingly, Prince Charles and Lady Diana considered buying Belton House (photo to the right) but in the end it was deemed unsuitable because the grounds were too difficult to secure.

The market town of Newark boasts the ruins of a castle
along the Trent river.

When we heard the Olympic Torch would be passing right by the house, we joined a large throng of flag-waving, patriotic neighbours of all ages who lined both sides of the street to catch a glimpse of the torch.  I don’t recall this kind of zeal when the torch for the 2010 Olympic Games passed through the streets of Ottawa, but that may have had more to do with the cold, wintry weather in the middle of December.  After watching the torch go by, Colin and Lynne invited some of their neighbours over for tea.  It was great to meet them and we really appreciated their offers to help us out during our visit.

Colin and Lynne have been so kind and nurturing towards us – not only have they generously given us the use of their house for five weeks, but they have also provided us with a car, and some much needed driving lessons for Chris. It is a challenge to get used to driving on the other side of the road…..all I’m going to say is that Chris has done remarkably well and we have the cleanest windshield in all of Britain (the windshield wipers are located where the blinkers would be in a Canadian car).

After a few days, Colin and Lynne departed for Canada where they are spending five weeks visiting their son Mark and his wife Catherine (my niece – now you see the connection!) Alone in the house, Chris and I proceeded to make ourselves at home.  We didn’t even leave the house for the first couple of days as we ate up all the lovely leftovers and raided Lynne’s pantry (which we’ll replenish before we leave, of course).  We just needed some down time and that’s what we had.  We then spent the better part of the next week getting caught up on the photos for our Camino blog entries and I did some website maintenance as well.  Each day we walked into the pretty town centre to pick up whatever we needed and perhaps stop for a coffee as well.  It was a very relaxing week however it rained every single day.  Now and then the sun would peak out and offer false hope that the rain was over.  In fact, the entire two weeks in England were wet, dreary and downright cold.

By the second week, we were ready to explore a little further afar and so we did some day trips into neighbouring towns of Lincoln and Nottingham – yes, famous for Robinhood and his merry men.  Sadly, there isn’t much left of Sherwood Forest these days but it is still a popular tourist attraction. I must admit, these excursions were a little nerve racking as we worked together to get us safely to our destination – Chris did the driving and I did the navigating.  Just when we figured we had mastered the roundabout, we came upon one that was multi-laned with traffic lights – now that threw us for a bit of a loop but we got through it safely – it helped that all the lights were green when we went through.

A selection of local beers that Colin thought Chris might enjoy.

After two weeks of rest and relaxation in England, Chris and I boarded a high speed train  to Paris for one week to celebrate my 50th birthday.