June 17, 2012

From San Nicolas del Real Camino to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos (21 km)

Today I take the road less travelled. Chris and I get up late, around 7:00.  I am feeling so much better after a good night´s sleep although my stomach still feels a little fragile, but I´m ready to keep going.  I´m taking my time though, having a coffee and croissant while I check my email before I start walking.  While eating breakfast I hear Chris outside talking to Noel and Ronnie who have just walked up (they have already been walking for 2 hours).  This is the Irish couple who Chris had a few too many with some time ago.  I have not seen them since Granon.

Next comes Laila who I haven´t seen since Logrono.  She tells me there is a junction coming up where you must choose to go right or left.  The left road is the most well travelled and it goes along the road way for about 31 km.  The right is far less travelled and passes through remote countryside.  Both roads meet up again in Reliegos. She is planning to take the less travelled road and hopes to see me later.

Even though my feet are hurting, I walk strong this morning.  It seems the pain is not as sharp if I walk faster.  Every time I start walking, I am wincing in pain and stepping gingerly on my feet until I get used to the pain and get into my stride.  Then it just feels like a dull pain that is part of my walk.

At the first town, I catch up to Ronnie and Noel who are enjoying a rest and a cup of coffee.  Chris is with them but I don´t see him as he has gone into a shop while I have gone into the cafe.  He has left when I come out, not even a hello.  I think he is upset about leaving his favourite water bottle behind.  Maybe he thought I would see it and bring it for him, but I didn´t notice it back at the Albergue.  I have bought two Snickers bars in the cafe – one for him – now I have two for myself.

There are many works of art that pay homage to the pilgrim. 

I haven’t seen “Crazy” Yoshida for a few days and was surprised and happy
to see him here, enjoying his one cigarette for the day 🙂 

I purchase some groceries and more bandaids at the Pharmacy.  I can´t believe how many bandaids and tape I am going through.  I am hoping to get to Reliegos today but I know that will be pushing it especially since I am still not feeling 100 percent.

When I reach the junction point, I am not sure which way to go.  Everybody is going left, not a soul is going right.  Finally, I choose the road less travelled and veer to the right.  It is a good decision because it is a lovely old Roman road that passes through remote, pretty countryside.  It is very isolated and there is not a soul in sight ahead or behind.  Sometimes I wonder if I am on the right road, but then a sign will appear and I can relax again.

Another pebble road to torture my feet.

It is always reassuring to see a sign on
these remote, isolated stretches, even when it is in the ditch. 

As I get close to the next town, I meet Emily from Colorado. Ahead of her is Laila although I don´t know this until later.  I reach the next town at around 1:00.  I have only walked 20 km so far and feel I could do another 10 but I learn at the Albergue that the next town is 18 km away.  There is no way I can do that this afternoon.  I already have two new blisters from today´s walk – I am sure it is the pebble paths I am walking on that twists and turns my feet in every direction. So I decide to check into the Albergue and call it a day.

Another empty town.  Where is everybody?

A real shell embedded in the sidewalk to point the way.

Guess who is in front of me checking in? Yup, Laila.  We head out to the local restaurant along with Emily and enjoy a relaxing afternoon having a couple of beers on the patio sharing Camino stories.  I have them in tears when I tell them about Nella in Granon, her Camino story and her birthday party in the Church.  It feels good to relax and rest, I think my body and especially my feet need it.

This notice caught my eye in the albergue – I even took a photo
so that I had the schedule on hand….just in case. 

Next we stock up on provisions in the only shop in town.  This is the tiniest shop I have been in, run by a very tiny man.  He is very sweet and helpful, showing us items he thinks we might like.  I settle on some fruit and yogurt, cheese and some olives, which will be plenty to keep me going tomorrow.

I have another nap and then we all go out for dinner together, along with a German girl who has checked into the Albergue.  We are tired and conversation is rather subdued over dinner.  We are  in bed and asleep before 10:00.

The German girl is sitting next to me (don’t remember her name),
Laila is across from her, and Emily is across from me. 

From Villacazar de Serga to San Nicolas del Real Camino (38.2 km)

I am awoken this morning by a firm hand shaking my shoulder.  What? What? I mumble.  You must get up now. It will be a hot day today and you must start early before it gets too hot.  I sleepily turn  to see Alarco´s earnest face.  I grumpily turn my back to him and say: What I need is more sleep. But it is too late, I am awake.

I had a bad night last night. My stomach was off and I woke up several times with diarrhea.  And I had a bad case of insomnia. After just a few hours of sleep I awoke and I couldn´t quiet my mind enough to go back to sleep.  Finally around 5:00 am I fell asleep only to be awakened an hour later.

I feel crappy today.  I walk to the first town with Marco, the Lithuanian man who tells me more about his life story.  He really appreciated our dinner conversation and it encouraged him to open up. He had an abusive past with an alcoholic father and a co-dependent mother.  He could relate to the issues I am struggling with in my marriage as he has faced similar problems in his relationships.  He is very self aware and insightful and so interesting to talk to.

We stop for a coffee at the first town where I again run into Chris.  I am dying to tell him I have discovered what is next in my life, but he is engrossed in conversation with Richard, an Australian vineyard owner.  I just mention to him that there´s something I want to share whenever we get a chance down the road so literally down the road, when I stop for a lunch break, he stops and joins me.

I share my news and my excitement is contagious.  But there is lots to think about and to figure out now.  Do we continue travelling?  Do we start making plans now to go home?  And what about Chris?  What does he want to do?  Chris is ready to follow me and support me as I pursue my dreams and I get annoyed by this.  Why is he so willing to sacrifice his own dreams for me? He thinks he is being noble but I feel like he is hanging on my coat strings.  And there we leave the conversation for now.

We walk together along this 17 km long, flat and boring road that seems to go on forever. I am struggling today.  I am tired, my feet hurt (what´s new), and my stomach is upset.  All I want to do is lie down by the side of the road and curl up into a ball.  But I just keep putting one foot in front of the other.  Chris sees I am having a hard time and tries to take my bag from me but I stubbornly refuse his help although I do hold hands with him, mainly to help me stay standing and focused. Chris,on the other hand, seems to be doing great.  When we finally reach the next town, I am done, can´t walk another step.  Chris is ready to continue on to the next town 6 km away.  Erin and Cameron are here too and are getting ready to walk on.

When I check out the Albergue, it is one of those large open dorms with 80 beds in one room.  It´s awful and I cannot bear the thought of staying here when I am feeling so poorly.  Chris suggests I take a taxi to the next town.  Finally we end up taking a taxi together to a town about 15 km away because we like the description of the Albergue there.  It only cost 15 Euros and was worth every penny.  I think Chris is a little worried about me and wants to stay close; I´m a little worried about me too so I don´t mind the support at all.

The Albergue turns out to be just as described, a modern building with beautiful facilities.  We are given a dorm with 3 bunks and we are the only ones in it.  After the usual routine (although Chris takes care of my laundry for me), I head to bed for a nap where I sleep deeply until dinner time.  Chris awakens me and I reluctantly get up and eat a little, and then go straight back to bed where I sleep soundly through the entire night.